Broadway Barbers · Beard Grooming Guide

What Beard Balm Does

Beard balm sits between oil and wax, conditioning the beard while adding light hold. Our senior barbers in Chesham explain what it does, who needs it and how it compares.

Light to mediumHold from a typical beard balm
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What Is Beard Balm?

Beard balm is a soft, solid grooming product that usually comes in a small tin. It is made from a blend of butters such as shea or cocoa butter, carrier oils such as jojoba or argan and a wax, usually beeswax or a plant based alternative. The butters and oils condition the beard and skin while the wax gives the product its structure and a light hold.

Many men wonder what beard balm does that beard oil does not. The main difference is control. Oil conditions but offers almost no hold. Balm conditions and helps the beard keep its shape through the day. At Broadway Barbers in Chesham we often recommend balm to customers with medium and longer beards that tend to frizz, spread or lose shape by the afternoon. This guide explains exactly what balm does and when it is worth using.

Balm is also popular with men who find oil too light or too greasy. Its thicker texture gives a more controlled feel and it is less likely to leave hands and pillows oily.

What Does Beard Balm Do for Your Beard?

Conditions the Hair

Butters and oils soften coarse beard hair and help it feel smoother and more manageable.

Adds Light Hold

The wax content helps the beard keep its shape, taming stray hairs without making it stiff.

Tames Frizz

Balm smooths the outer layer of the hair so curly or wiry beards look neater.

Adds Body

The texture gives hair a little grip, which can make thinner beards look fuller.

Protects the Beard

A light coating helps protect against wind, cold and dry indoor air.

Moisturises the Skin

Some of the conditioning reaches the skin, although oil is better for deep skin care.

How Does Beard Balm Compare With Oil and Wax?

Balm sits in the middle of the three main beard products. The table below shows how they differ.

Beard Oil, Balm and Wax Compared
Feature Beard Oil Beard Balm Beard Wax
Texture Liquid Soft solid Firm solid
Main ingredients Carrier oils Butters, oils and some wax Mostly wax
Hold Very light Light to medium Strong
Conditioning High High Low to moderate
Skin benefit Very high Moderate Low
Best for All lengths, skin care Medium and long beards Moustaches and styled shapes

Many men use oil and balm together. Oil goes on first to condition the skin, then balm adds shape and control. Wax is usually saved for moustache styling or for taming very stubborn areas.

How Do You Use Beard Balm Correctly?

  1. 1
    Start with a clean beard

    Apply balm to a freshly washed or rinsed beard that has been towel dried.

  2. 2
    Scoop a small amount

    Use the back of your thumbnail to take a pea sized amount for a short beard. Use more for longer beards.

  3. 3
    Warm it in your palms

    Rub your hands together until the balm melts and spreads evenly across your palms and fingers.

  4. 4
    Work in from underneath

    Push your fingers up through the beard from the neck to reach the roots before smoothing downward.

  5. 5
    Smooth the outer layer

    Run your palms over the outside of the beard to tame flyaways and set the shape.

  6. 6
    Brush or comb into shape

    Use a brush or comb to distribute the balm evenly and style the beard.

Start With a Well Shaped Beard

Balm works best on a beard that has been cut well. A beard trim at Broadway Barbers starts from £8, with a trim and razor shape up for £20. Open seven days a week in Chesham.

Which Beard Lengths Benefit Most From Balm?

Balm becomes more useful as a beard gets longer and harder to control. The chart below shows how much benefit balm typically offers at different lengths.

How Useful Beard Balm Is by Beard Length
StubbleRarely needed
Short beard (6 to 15mm)Useful for coarse hair
Medium beard (15 to 50mm)Very useful
Long beard (50mm plus)Highly recommended
General guide based on barber experience. Coarse or curly beards benefit sooner.

If your beard is short but coarse or curly, balm can still help it lie flatter. If your beard is short and fine, oil alone is usually enough.

For a shape that makes the most of your balm, see our Beard Trim Prices for beard trims and cut and beard combinations at Broadway Barbers in Chesham.

What Should You Look for in a Beard Balm?

Choosing a Beard Balm
Look For Why Avoid
Natural butters Deep conditioning Petroleum based fillers
Quality carrier oils Softness and shine Low quality mineral oils
Balanced wax content Light hold without stiffness Very hard, waxy balms for daily use
Light scent Less irritation Heavy fragrance on sensitive skin
Clear ingredient list Easy to check for allergens Vague ingredient lists

If you have a nut allergy, check for shea butter and nut oils. If you prefer to avoid animal products, look for balms that use plant based waxes such as candelilla instead of beeswax.

What Are the Common Beard Balm Mistakes?

The most common mistake is using too much. A heavy layer of balm weighs the beard down, makes it look greasy and can clog the skin. Start with a small amount and add more only if needed. The second mistake is applying balm to the surface only. Working it in from underneath gives more even coverage and better control.

Another issue is using balm on a dirty beard. Balm can trap sweat and oil, which leads to itching and flakes. Always apply it to a clean beard. Finally, avoid applying balm straight from the tin without warming it first. Cold balm spreads unevenly and leaves clumps.

For a full application guide, read How to Use Beard Balm. To compare balm with a simpler option, see What Beard Oil Does. For a complete daily routine, read How to Style a Beard.

Does Beard Balm Help With Itch and Dandruff?

Balm can help. It is not the best tool for the job on its own. The butters and oils in balm condition the hair and add some moisture, yet most of the product stays on the hair rather than reaching the skin. Itch and dandruff start at the skin, so a few drops of beard oil massaged in first will do more to soothe them. Balm then locks in that moisture and protects the beard from drying out through the day.

If you suffer from persistent flakes, look at your washing routine too. Harsh shampoos strip natural oils and leave the skin dry. A gentle beard wash two or three times a week, followed by oil and a light balm, is a balanced routine that suits most men.

Is Beard Balm Suitable for Every Hair Type?

Balm suits most hair types but the benefits vary. Coarse, curly and coily beards gain the most because the butters soften the hair and the wax helps curls sit neatly. Straight, fine beards need far less balm and can look flat if too much is used. For these, a very small amount or a softer balm with lower wax content is a better choice. Grey beard hair tends to be wiry, so balm is often helpful for keeping it soft and controlled.

Can a Barber Help You Choose the Right Balm?

A barber can look at your beard length, hair texture and skin type and recommend whether balm, oil or both suit you. At the end of a trim, a barber can also show you how much to use and how to work it through.

At Broadway Barbers our senior barbers Dan, Harry, Ann and Catherine each have their own Booksy profile. You can choose your barber, check availability and book ahead. We are open seven days a week, with late opening until 8pm on Thursdays.

For more advice on beard care products and grooming, explore the Beard Grooming Hub, where every Broadway Barbers beard guide is gathered in one place.

Explore More Beard Guides

From balms and oils to trimming, shaping and growth tips, the Beard Grooming Hub brings together practical advice from barbers who have been cutting beards in Chesham since 2001.